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Keys to choose aquarium plants

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Are you looking for a guide on aquarium plants for beginners? Join us and we will help you choose the easiest aquatic plants to take care of, and we will show you how to make them look beautiful.

Have you seen a spectacular planted aquarium and wish you could do something similar in your own home? Do you buy plants that die within a few weeks and you don't know why?

Aquarium plant guide for beginners

In our guide We explain some of the most common mistakes that beginners make. We also offer some tips to choose the most suitable species of aquarium plants for beginners and how to care for them.

Don't miss our aquarium plant guide for beginners.

Aquarium Plants for Beginners

Why do you want aquarium plants?

The first step in choosing plants for your aquarium is think why you want natural plants in your fishbowl.

The Plants can provide a variety of benefits in the aquarium, but you still have to consider how you want to use them and why.

In addition to the obvious aesthetic benefits, the aquarium plants Naturals also improve the water quality of the tank.

They consume carbon dioxide (Co2) and the ammonia produced by the fish. They also use the necessary nutrients for algae to grow, so they help reduce or even eliminate the growth of algae in the aquarium.

They offer shelter to the fish, helping to keep them stress free and provide natural limits for territorial species. They also provide protection for fry.

Here are the advantages that live plants can provide in your aquarium:

    They convert the diox> Use nitrates and other waste chemicals, thus helping to eliminate them from the water column preventing them from damaging the fish. They saturate the water in the tank with oxygen, so it helps to aerate the tank. They provide a more natural look. They offer shelter and security> They can be used to hide aquarium accessories, thus improving aesthetics.

You should already know that water changes are essential to maintain the quality of water in your aquarium. You have to change between 10% and 15% of the volume of your tank once a week or every two weeks.

And also monitor the filter to make sure it is not clogged. If you don't know these elementary things about the practice of aquarium hobby, maybe our basic aquarium guide for beginners It's where you should start.

When thinking about why you want plants for your aquarium, the reasons listed above are important to consider.

The benefits of living plants are obvious, however, you will have to think about the details, how do you want your aquarium to look when you add the plants.

Live plants come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes and colors. Depending on the size and shape you choose, you can create a lush tapestry on the floor of the fish tank or a natural backdrop in your aquarium.

How to choose aquarium plants for beginners

Choosing natural plants for your aquarium may seem simple., as much as going to the store and choosing the ones you like best.

How to choose aquarium plants for beginners

But, if you want your plants to thrive, you should investigate before choosing them, just as you should when searching fish information Before buying them.

There's a lot aquarium plants Different to choose from and each of them has its own care requirements.

Before you think about buying plants for your aquarium, you should take some time to think about what types will best fit your fish tank and how you will take care of them.

It is common for new aquarium fans to end up asking why the plants they have bought have died. There may be several reasons why this can happen.

Plants need a combination of light, Co2, micro and to survive.

If you are determined to introduce natural plants, we will see what are the basic elements that you should know to enjoy plants in your aquarium.

Types of aquarium plants

Now that you have a better understanding of Role that plants play in your aquarium environment, you can start thinking about what kind of plants you want to use.

Aquarium plants can be divided into three different categories according to their location in the tank:

    The foreground plants They are the plants that are placed in the front of the tank. They are generally shorter and grow quite slow.

Some plants in the foreground are called upholstery plants because they tend to cover the bottom of the tank with a green layer similar to a carpet or tapestry instead of growing up, such as Cuba (Hemianthus Callitricho> The intermediate zone plants They are taller than the foreground plants and can be used on the sides of the tank and in the center.

They can add aesthetics to your tank aquarium without taking too much space to fish to swim. The background plants They are the largest plants that are used on the back of the fish tank. They can create a natural context as well as a place for fish to hide. The Java fern (Microsorum pteropus) It is a clear example of a ground floor.

What species of plants do you have in your aquarium?

Many times, the beginner doesn't even remember the name of the species / s he has in his tank. It is often the case that the focus is on fish and plants remain in the background.

What species of plants do you have in your aquarium?

It is also common for plants to be avenged as part of a package at buy the aquarium, and they are not labeled. Therefore, the aquarist has little or no idea of ​​what he has really bought.

Aquatic plants vary in shape, size and color, in addition to having different lighting, food and water parameters requirements. If you add a species that is not suitable for your aquarium, you will have a hard time keeping it healthy from day one.

A little later we will see a list with a series of normally available and affordable aquarium plants, which are tolerant of a wide variety of water conditions and lower light levels.

It is important that you select the right species for your tank and as a beginner try to avoid those with more difficult specific requirements.

The substrate in the aquarium

Something else you have to consider Before deciding what kind of aquarium plants you are going to buy It is the substrate of your fish tank.

Live plants need certain nutrients to thrive. And although they will absorb some nutrients from the water column, most of your nutrition will be absorbed through the roots. This is where your substrate comes into play.

The substrate is simply the material that covers the bottom of the tank and is where the aquarium plants will take root. But which substrate is best for the aquarium is always the subject of much debate among aquarists.

Large gravel is not suitable for fish such as Catfish, for example, since the sharp edges of the gravel can damage its delicate chins. So aquariophiles with Catfish in their tanks they use fine sand to avoid this.

With this what we mean is that the aquarist needs to think about what species of fish and what plants he wants to keep before deciding on a substrate.

Sand and gravel substrates are fine for fish-only aquariums, but A planted aquarium will require a complete substrate that provides nutrients. If you want to know how to mount a planted aquarium step by step, take a look at our guide.

What substrate to choose for my new aquarium?

We recommend that beginners avoid sand or coral gravel and peat. The first considerably increases the pH of the water and is only suitable for specialized facilities that house fish that need hard and alkaline water.

On the other hand, peat has the opposite effect and reduces pH, which will lead to undesirable water conditions for hard water species, such as guppies or the mollies.

If you are preparing to install a new aquarium and a planted tank is on your priority list, then it would be better to avoid large diameter gravel since it is not an option for healthy root development.

You will get better results with smaller gravel, 2 to 3 mm if this is the type of substrate you choose. Keep in mind that colored gravel can raise the pH of your aquarium and it is better to avoid it, although it is also true that many think there is to avoid it for good taste reasons only.

Alternatively you can use sand. You can use sand from the DIY store, from the aquarium shop or pool filter sand. However, the sand has its own problems.

Note that it can suffer from compaction, so it is necessary to move it occasionally. This should be done to avoid the accumulation of hydrogen sulfide gas that could be harmful to the aquarium inhabitants. The best way to prevent this is to simply give it a good "wiggle" when you make regular water changes.

In addition, if the sand is compacted it can also be difficult for the roots of some plants to grow through it. Try to provide a depth greater than 3 cm, and make sure you clean the sand thoroughly before adding it to your tank.

This can be a long and laborious task. But to try to make it easier, you can put the sand in an old clean pillowcase, and let the water run on the sand until it is clean.

The substrate in the aquarium

Complete substrates

The good news is that there are some substrates that are ideal for planted tanks.

There are commercial products like the ECO-COMPLETE caribsea , which contains all the nutrients that root plants need. It is available in black and a brownish red color that looks attractive in your tank.

There are also clay-based products, such as Laterite, which can be added to gravel or sand, to increase the volume of the substrate with a nutrient-rich material.

Keep in mind that it is Better avoid the old types of filters for plate aquariums if you want to have natural plants in the aquarium. The oxygen-rich water that runs on its roots constantly does not help its growth.

Substrate of an already assembled aquarium

If your fish tank is already installed, you will have to consider your substrate when choosing which plants you are going to buy and how many you are going to plant.

If you are using a complete substrate as CaribSea Eco-Complete or ADA Aqua Soil - AmazoniaYou have many options to choose from since these substrates are designed specifically for planted tanks.

If you have a sand or gravel substrate, you can also add natural plants, but you will need to fertilize them periodically to make sure they get the nutrients they need.

Another type of substrate that you may be using is Seachem Flourite. This substrate is high in iron but lacking other nutrients, it is also very dense and porous, but it is not a suitable option for plants with delicate roots.

If you have a soil substrate, it is likely that most plants develop well, but you should keep in mind that you can cloud the water in your aquarium if you disturb it to place its plants.

Finally, keep in mind that there are also some plants that feed column the water column, which means that they will get most of their nutrients from the tank water. In this case, there will be no problem in keeping the plants with a substrate that does not provide any nutritional value.

Aquarium plants for beginners and lighting

Light is the key energy source for your aquarium plants. Light allows them to complete the process of photosynthesis through which they convert carbon dioxide into energy.

There are many different options for aquarium lighting, but not all of them are ideal for natural plants. If you want to deepen the theme of lighting in the aquarium, here you can see our special article about this theme.

Your plants will need about 8 hours of full spectrum light per day. Full spectrum light mimics natural sunlight and is the best for photosynthesis.

However, be careful with the use of natural light, such as placing your tank next to a window, because too much light could contribute to the growth of algae.

What kind of lighting do you have?

Many of the aquariums currently on sale were designed with interior design in mind rather than the needs of aquatic plants originating on the other side of the world.

It happens on a regular basis that people assume that the plants will be fine regardless of the supply in the tank. While this may be true sometimes, it is not always true.

Some aquariums simply do not have what some more demanding species need. Choosing the right species for your fishbowl lighting is a big step in the right direction.

Gone are those days when aquarists had to make do with pipes designed for horticultural use. The current aquarium can choose from a wide range of different types of lighting, including:

LED lighting for aquariums

Currently, the best type of lighting for a planted tank is LED lighting. LED lighting is highly efficient in terms of energy consumption and also last a long time.

LED lighting for aquariums

Aquarium lighting with LED (light emitting diodes) has become very popular in recent times, and rightly so. They last more than 50,000 hours and do not emit heat, so they can be placed very close to the surface of the water so that the plants benefit more from the light they emit.

Its small size makes it a very flexible element when positioning them too. It is also possible to buy tube-shaped LED lighting so that it can be put in place of the fluorescent tubes.

Also these types of lamps are usually much cheaper. If you want to know more about the Led Light in the aquarium you can stop by our article Special dedicated to the best led lamps.

Fluorescent lighting

The fluorescent lighting has been and still is very popular in the aquarist world. It is easily available, cheap and emits little heat.

Its main disadvantage is that the lights nthey need to be replaced at least every year to be effective, perhaps even every nine months or so for plants to thrive. If your fluorescent tube is three years old and your plants don't look "good," replace it!

There are two main types of fluorescent lights used in aquarium hobby. These are T5 Y T8.

If possible, always choose the version T5 more modern. These are a better option than the old lights T8 And they have several advantages. The tubes are narrower in diameter, allowing more pipes to be installed in the hood in case a densely planted tank is desired.

It is recommended use full spectrum tubes (5000-7000ºK). Unfortunately, due to the different diameters, the tubes T5 Y T8 They are not interchangeable unless an adapter is used.

Metal halide lighting

The metal halide It is expensive to buy and use. It is usually used by aquarists who have aquariums with Marine fish deep where their corals and other invertebrates need to receive a lot of light. Therefore, we will not say more in this guide for beginners of aquarium plants.

Some signs of poor health

When choosing aquarium plants you have to observe in detail leaves, stem and roots, that is, the entire plant.

There are some very obvious signs and injuries, such as rotting areas, fractured stems and broken or transparent leaves, but in general, knowing how to recognize signs of deterioration or disease implies some experience on the part of the professional. In order to differentiate that a coloration or appearance is abnormal, and therefore indicative of a problem, we must first know what the coloration and the usual appearance of the plant is. In a healthy plant color, stem consistency and quantity and arrangement of the leaves should correspond to the typical pattern of the species or variety, always taking into account that there is some variability that does not always correspond to poor maintenance. If you do not have enough training, professional advice is essential, as in so many other aspects of the merchant-customer relationship.

Lighting to avoid in the aquarium

Avoid using incandescent bulbs. Some of the cheaper brand aquariums come standard with this type of lighting in order to maintain a cheap price.

This type of lighting is not compatible with most plant species, since it simply does not emit the right kind of light that plants need.

If possible, replace it with LED or fluorescent lighting. In addition, LED or fluorescent lighting is cheaper to use than incandescent, so you will save money in the long term.

Tonality

  • A dull tone, which we could define as sad or lazy, can indicate stress due to insufficient lighting or deficiency of inorganic compounds.
  • The presence of chlorosis, yellowish leaves mainly between the nerves, is also a sign of lack of inorganic elements.
  • Exclusive chlorosis of young leaves may indicate a lack of iron, since it is immobilized within the plant and cannot pass from the old leaves to the new ones.
  • Some rarer chlorosis are motivated by excess of certain metals such as copper, cobalt or cadmium, and much more infrequently by zinc or chromium.

The state of the leaves of the plant can tell us a lot about the conditions in which it has been maintained, although it should not be too demanding, not all healthy plants have all their leaves in perfect condition.

  • Brown lesions or spots indicate a beginning of decomposition, which may have its origin in excessive concentrations of nitrogen compounds.
  • Brown or black spots may have the same origin, but also be the result of excess phosphates or iron due to fertilizer abuse.
  • Brownish edges and apices can also indicate nutritional deficiencies.

The leaves should not have holes, frayed edges or transparent or eroded areas, which are usually the work of snails and herbivorous fish. The latter can also cause plants with a leafless appearance, in which it is evident that they have been eliminated, that is, eaten, whole leaves. Nor is the presence of whitish sediments on its surface desirable, which are calcareous deposits due to a shortage of carbon dioxide. In the specific case of plants of the genus Cryptocoryne, and given the incidence of the so-called "disease or rotting of cryptocorins", it is convenient to pay careful attention to the fact that the leaves do not have small holes or spots with vitreous or amorphous appearance.

General aspect

Improper lighting causes plants with a thin, rickety appearance that are characterized by having a small number of leaves and a smaller size than normal, as well as very long stems between knots or excessively swollen or weak. The rhizomes should be robust and consistent when pressed lightly with the fingers, and the roots should look good, without too broken areas or obvious rot. In addition to the purely physical state of the plant, we can observe other aspects that may be indicative of its state of health. The average stay of the plant in the wholesale or retail trade is usually short, in fact the idea is a fleeting step, the faster the better, until you reach the aquarium of the final customer, although it is not always possible to carry out . This concept is not bad in itself, much less, but it does make some merchants, usually wholesalers, directly offer aquarium plants as they arrive, even in the individual plastic bag with which they are usually transported.

This situation should not be considered more than a strictly temporary measure, when the acquisition by customers is carried out in a period that more than days should be hours, 24-48 since they are received. It should be noted that they can take several days in these bags since they were packaged in their place of origin. Obviously all the signs of ill health described can hardly be observed with the plant in the plastic, unless it is clear that the situation is already truly disastrous. If plants are imported in large quantities, it may be interesting to conduct a random check, especially with the most delicate species, removing the pot from the plant and performing a visual inspection.

Many shops that have a good rotation of plants simply place them in an aquarium with filtration, well lit and with a temperature of 21-26 ° C. It is usually more than enough for them to remain a few days until they are sold to the final customer, provided they are placed vertically, more or less anchored in the substrate. Staying in a horizontal position, floating on the surface, is very stressful for most of the plants that are marketed for aquariums. In summary, depending on how the plants are placed, it will give an idea of ​​whether or not they are well maintained.

Photoperiod

It is very common to ask How long do I leave the lights on to benefit the aquarium plants?

Heron Power
MINI digital timer

Whichever type of lighting you choose, you should ensure that your aquarium is illuminated from 8 to 10 hours a day.

Using a timer for your lamp will help you get a regular Without having to be aware.

If you start experiencing algae growth, reduce the amount of time the light is on and monitor the situation closely, making the necessary adjustments.

Under normal conditions, light intensity has a better effect on plant growth than photoperiod.

How to feed aquarium plants for beginners?

Many beginner aquarists believe that the waste produced by their fish will be sufficient to maintain their plants and do not consider adding fertilizer.

How to feed aquarium plants

This is a big mistake, probably the biggest mistake related to plants made by most beginner aquarists. By not adding fertilizers, they are basically deprived of the nutrients they need to survive.

While it is true that fish waste, unconsumed food and even tap water provide some of the necessary nutrients, but in reality they do not provide everything necessary.

Most likely, you end up experiencing problems such as leaf holes, discoloration, stunted growth, small leaves and, finally, death.

Like land plants, they require macro and, in addition to Co2 and light. There are several different types of fertilizers available to the aquarist.

Subscription Subscriptions

In essence they are almost like earth or are made of clay-based compounds and as the name implies, they are part of the substrate of your aquarium. Thus, these fertilizers can only be added when the aquarium is being mounted from scratch.

If your idea is to build a heavily planted tank, then you should really consider using this type of substrate fertilizer. It lasts several years and provides enough nutrients to have many strong and healthy plants.

Almost all really impressive planted tanks that you may have seen almost certainly will have a substrate fertilizer.

Tablets fertilizers

Many brands make fertilizers in tablets or pills, easily available. These nutrient-rich "tablets" can be added directly to the substrate, providing the necessary nutrients for plant species such as Water lawn - Lilaeopsis Brasiliensis, Echinodorus, Cryptocoryne Y Vallisneria, among other.

One of its advantages is that plants can be fed individually when used. Some aquarists also add this type of fertilizer when they place new plants in their aquarium.

Liquid fertilizers

These are, by far, the most common aquarium plant fertilizers used today. There are many different products available in the market and it is best to look for a high quality product.

Generally, liquid fertilizers are used weekly, although it is normal to consult the instructions of each manufacturer, as this may vary.

Are ideal for plant species that absorb nutrients directly through their foliage, as the Dense egeria or the Java moss (Barieri Taxiphyllum). However, they do not provide enough nutrition to species such as amazon sword.

In these cases, you may need to use a combination of liquid fertilizers and tablets to feed all your plants well.

If you have an aquarium full of fish, keep in mind that you should use a liquid fertilizer that does not contain nitrogen or phosphorus. These two nutrients are present in fish waste, and too high a level in the aquarium will result in undesirable growth of algae.

No guide on aquarium plants for beginners would be complete without mentioning the carbon dioxide or Co2. Plants need carbon like every living being and plants receive theirs through carbon dioxide.

Some people believe it is necessary to add Co2 to the aquarium for good plant growth.

This is true in aquariums with a large number of plants where competition for Co2 is high. Also in aquariums with high levels of lighting, where plants are unable to cope with the demands of photosynthesis derived from the amount of light.

But this is not the case of aquariums populated with only a few plants.

That said, you can't deny that supplement Co2 will boost plant growth. However, the add Co2 to the fish tank It is a complex issue, and should not be added lightly, without further investigation.

At the moment, at least you should know that an excessive contribution can kill your fish and prawns. But delving into this topic is beyond the scope of this guide.

Red aquarium plants

There are several species of red aquatic plants available for cultivation in the aquarium, and they are very popular due to their attractive appearance. However, as a general rule, tend to need more light than their green counterparts and, therefore, are more difficult to maintain.

Their red appearance usually depends on being given iron supplements.. So if you buy for example a bunch of Red Cabomba (Cabomba piauhyensis) and you do not provide iron supplements, the foliage will lose its red coloration and in a few weeks it will begin to show a more brown coloration.

Be careful with your prawns

If you want to put natural plants and you have prawns in your aquarium you should read this.

Aquarium plants are produced commercially in Europe and in the East, and the vast majority is grown in the latter.

In order to enter the EU, plants must be treated with pesticides to avoid importing unwanted "pests." This is a legal requirement and no importation will be allowed without this treatment process.

Although these pesticides have no effect on aquarium fish, they can kill and they will kill the aquarium prawns, sometimes eliminating them all very quickly.

Unfortunately, not all aquarium stores know this, or forget to tell their customers when they buy natural plants. Online stores can package your order directly after receiving your shipment from the Orient, so that the plants are still covered with these particularly lethal chemicals.

When these plants are added to the aquarium without soaking or rinsing, the fate of the prawns is sealed.

In an ideal world, each aquarist would quarantine all the plants before adding them to their main aquariums. In the real world, this is not really practical for the vast majority of fans.

Thus, We strongly recommend soaking newly acquired plants in a bucket of water at room temperature for about eight hours more or less, changing the water completely at least four times.

Once this is done, rinse thoroughly with warm water, not warm, under a tap to remove all traces of pesticide. This will ensure that your plants are "safe for prawns." Even if your provider tells you that their plants are "safe for prawns", it is worth doing this procedure just in case.

Some species of snails appear immune to the pesticides used before export. Therefore, before adding any plant to your aquarium, check them out and check for snails or snail eggs.

Failure to do so can end an infestation and irreparable damage to your aquarium plants.

Fish species

Of course, it goes without saying that after having invested in lighting, substrate and the correct fertilizers, you have to check the characteristics of the fish in your tank, it is necessary to ensure that our fish do not feed on plants.

No matter how good the installation is, if you have species such as goldfish fish who love to eat aquarium plants, your plants will never thrive. Therefore, if your idea is to create an aquatic landscape full of natural plants, you should investigate the eating habits of the fish that you are going to have in the same tank.

Aquarium plants for beginners

Below, we see a list of aquarium plant species for beginners normally available.

These are ideal because they all tolerate a wide variety of water conditions, can survive in low light conditions and have no specific fertilization needs or Co requirements2.

Java moss
Taxiphyllum barbieri

Water lawn
Lilaeopsis brasiliensis

Brazilian Micro Swords

Cuba
Hemianthus callitrichoides

Dwarf Baby Tears

Wisteria de agua
Hygrophila difformis

Espada Amazonica
Echinodorus Bleheri

Helecho africano
Bolbitis heudelotii

African Water Fern

Helecho de Java
Microsorum pteropus

Anubias Nana
Anubias barteri var. nana

Ahora que ya conoces un poco más las plantas de acuario, puedes utilizar la siguiente información para tomar una mejor decisión de compra.

Si quieres aprender más sobre el uso de plantas naturales en el acuario, puedes echarle un vistazo a nuestro guía para principiantes sobre aquascaping, donde el tanque con plantas se convierte en un paisaje subacuático.

Esperamos haberte ayudado con esta guía sobre plantas de acuario para principiantes. Si te ha gustado, no te olvides de compartir en tus redes sociales favoritas,)

ELEGIR PLANTAS PARA ACUARIO: ¿NATURALES O ARTIFICIALES?

Puede parecer una obviedad pensar que al elegir plantas para acuario hablamos siempre de plantas naturales. Sin embargo, no es así sino que hemos de ser conscientes de que estas plantas van a requerir una serie de cuidados que, de no poder darles, acabarán con ellas. Una razón de peso para que optemos por las plantas artificiales (aunque, lógicamente, solo cumplan con el valor decorativo y no con el depurador que comentábamos antes).

La planta artificial no demandará cuidados y, aunque cumpla estéticamente, nos obliga a renunciar al carácter depurativo de la natural.
Si estás pensando elegir plantas para acuario artificiales visita aquí nuestra selección

Como seres vivos que son, las plantas de acuario nos demandarán una serie de cuidados que tendremos que cumplir si queremos que perduren en él.

Por un lado y al igual que cualquier otra planta, necesitan enraizar en el fondo del acuario para poder sostenerse y tomar del agua todas las impurezas (con las que, también, se alimentarán). Pero, añadido a esto, las plantas de acuario naturales tienen fundamentalmente una demanda: la luz. Un factor a tener en cuenta y que nos demandará lámparas de acuario adecuadas si queremos que nuestras plantas realicen correctamente la fotosíntesis y se mantengan saludablemente. Es más: cuanta más luz tenga nuestro acuario mayor será nuestro abanico para elegir plantas para acuario.

Al comprar un kit de acuario, conviene que miremos cuál es la potencia de la lámpara que incluye para saber qué plantas utilizar.
Si estás pensando comprar online un kit de acuario, visita este

Si nos decantamos por las plantas naturales, tendremos que contemplar algo importante: no todas las plantas son aptas para todos los tipos de peces. Mientras algunas pueden ser incluidas en cualquier ecosistema acuático, otras pueden resultar tóxicas para algunas especies. Los peces son dados a mordisquearlas, por lo que es importante que al comprar plantas para acuario consultemos cuáles son las adecuadas según nuestra colonia de peces. En otras ocasiones, como por ejemplo cuando tenemos cíclicos africanos, la alcalinidad del agua supedita la elección de las plantas.

Además de la toxicidad, en esta elección tendremos que contemplar dos factores más (que van de la mano con los peces que tenemos): la temperatura y el tipo de agua también determinarán si podemos o no incluir una determinada planta en el acuario.

PLANTAS PARA DISTINTOS TIPOS DE ACUARIO

Si decidimos elegir plantas para acuario naturales y más allá de consultar las peculiaridades de cada una según los habitantes del nuestro, queremos plantear una pequeña guía de especies según sus necesidades y dificultades de cultivo para ayudar a los amantes de la acuariofilia a comenzar a encauzar el mundo vegetal de su acuario.

Así, veamos según los tipos de acuario y los momentos del mismo algunas recomendaciones.

Plantas para para acuario en ciclado

Estas plantas para acuario son las que cualquier novato que comience de cero con uno tiene que tener en él. Durante la fase de ciclado (que dura aproximadamente un mes), estaremos preparando el agua para que la vida que incorporemos en ella resista. Este tiempo es, fundamentalmente, para eliminar sustancias tóxicas del agua (como el amoniaco) que podrían matar a nuestros peces.

Para ayudar en este proceso, podemos optar por incluir en el acuario plantas como:

Ceratophyllum Demersum: también llamada Cola de Zorro. Muy sencilla de cuidar, con baja exigencia de luz y de rápido crecimiento. Tiene la capacidad de ser una planta antialgas.
Limnophila Sessiliflora: de sencillo cultivo y vistosa de aspecto, demanda una iluminación media. Por su crecimiento y forma, es perfecta para crear macizos.

Plantas para acuario nivel principiantes

Aunque parezca mentira, hay un buen número de plantas que no nos exigirán muchos cuidados si nos estamos iniciando en la acuariofilia, y que además crecerán sin mayores dificultades con pocos cuidados. Algo genial para quienes todavía no se han sumergido por completo en este mundillo y quieren comenzar a dar sus primeros pasos sin sobresaltos.

Para los novatos, algunas de las plantas para acuario más sencillas son (además de las mencionadas para el periodo de ciclado):

Microsorium Pteropus: llamado Helecho de Java. Una planta para acuario más que común en ellos, ya que apenas necesita iluminación. No tiene un crecimiento tan espectacular como otras especies vegetales, pero es vistosa.
Anubia Nana: de cuidados muy sencillos y poca exigencia de luz. Es perfecta para colocar sobre rocas o para las zonas delanteras del acuario.
Hygrophila Polyesperma: planta muy resistente cuyo tallo puede alcanzar un buen tamaño y, con buena cantidad de luz (aunque se conforma con menos), adquiere una coloración rojiza. Se distingue, fundamentalmente, porque es un marcador natural de cualquier déficit de potasio en un acuario.

Plantas para acuario nivel avanzado

A medida que nos vamos rodando en el mundo de la acuariofilia, cada vez querremos contar con más plantas para acuario en nuestro pequeño ecosistema. Una manera de jugar a nivel paisajístico con él pero, también, de aportarle el maravilloso realismo que hace de los acuarios algo todavía más hermoso que un simple contenedor con peces.

Quienes ya están avanzados en la acuariofilia, demandarán poder crear con las plantas volúmenes y zonas. Juegos visuales que, gracias a las plantas, mejorarán el aspecto general del acuario.

Para ellos, aquí van algunas propuestas de plantas para acuario que requieren más cuidados que las anteriores:

Eleocharis Acicularis: el césped del acuario. Esta tapizante alcanza una buena altura, y demandará una gran cantidad de iluminación (por lo que tendremos que incluir en nuestro acuario una lámpara potente)
Hidrocotyle tripartita: también tapizante, esta planta rastrera con hojas en forma de trébol demandará también buena luz. Ideal para crear rincones en zonas determinadas del acuario.
Hygrophila Corymbosa: de fácil cuidado, esta planta de carácter arbustivo crece de forma densa y tiene una demanda media de luz.

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